Surfing, Saints and Sand
My eleven year old boy decided he wanted to join the school's surf team. Now I find the two of us at the local Cafe at 6 a.m. a few mornings a week. One might think this could be a drag, but it turns out it’s been a blessing. The fresh smell of the morning breeze and the beauty of watching these kids catch a wave. It’s the closest thing to dancing on water I’ve ever seen. It’s graceful, euphoric, and can even turn your world upside down!
I started to look back at my life and realize I was always happiest at the waters edge. I now live in Southern California, but growing up in Ohio I would always seek the water for my toes.
When I was 16, in the first car my father bought me, a 69’ Red Camero with a white vinyl hard top and chrome wheels, I would drive to Lake Erie with my best friends to the water and sand. With baby oil, tin foil, and a beach chair, I was finding what I needed.
I’m paying for it now with freckles and an adventurous spirit, but I wouldn’t give it up for the world.
When I was 18, I drove a little further and made it to the beaches of the Atlantic with the fine white sand and strong gigantic waves that could take your breath away.
At 19, I made it to Miami Beach where the Caribbean hits New York City. When I was 21, I moved to California, then flung my arrows to Mexico, Bali,Vernazza, Portugal and where ever I was sure to spot a shore line.
I thought about Saint Christopher. I thought about why do all the coolest surfers wear Saint Christopher charms around their necks. I have come across this image several times on my travels. When I was in Yelapa Mexico once I remember this young father crossing the river with his son on his shoulder. It turns out St. Christopher’s legend is about a strong man where his only service to offer his community was a lift across the river. One day he carried a child thats was heavier then the whole wide world. They made it to shore safely!
But the idea of carrying someone across a river or to ride a wave is completely transforming. So touch the water, it’s powerful and beyond our control. It may be one of the twelve wonders of the world!Back to Articles